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Dec 15, · This quickeasy free knitting patternvideo tutorial will teach you how to knit a cardigan, even if you are a beginner knitter! This soft, slouchy cardigan is a fall wardrobe essential. Designed as a perfect “first garment project” for beginner knitters, the entire sweater is made from 3 pieces, with minimal shaping.
See our disclosure for details. This soft, slouchy cardigan is a fall wardrobe essential. This sweater is one of my new favorite pieces for fall.
The Lion Brand Pound of Love yarn I used is just perfect for garments like this — soft and fuzzy, but machine washable. When designing this free cardigan pattern, I wanted it to be simple enough for a beginner to knit.
So instead of knitting two pieces for the front, one for the back, two more pieces for sleeves, and adding a separate neckine edging, I chose to knit this sweater in only THREE PIECES, one piece for the body of the sweater with a built-in edging, and one for each sleeve.
You will need to use 4 Worsted Weight Yarn for this project. For more information on choosing the right yarn for a pattern, see this post.
If you can knit and purl back and forth in rows, and work a simple increase stitch, you can knit this entire cardigan! See instructions below to learn how to work this stitch.
Bring the right needle behind the left needle, and insert the right needle into back of the same st, and knit through it again.
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Now let the old stitch slip off the left needle. With Long-Tail Cast On, cast on,sts.
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You should have,sts. Repeat Rows until you have a total of 20 rows, ending with row 2. Place a stitch marker on right needle. K, sts.
Sl marker, P across to nxt marker, sl marker. Sl marker, K across to nxt marker, sl marker. Sl marker, K 27 32, 35, 40, 44, 49, 54, 57, 63 sts.
Do not continue to work across remaining sts. We will now only be working across the section just knit. All remaining sts will sit on the needle until we move on to the nxt section.
You should have 53 58, 61, 70, 74, 79, 88, 91, 97 sts for this section, not including remaining sts held on the needle for later. Row 2: P 27 32, 35, 40, 44, 49, 54, 57, 63 sts, sl marker.
You should have 53 58, 61, 70, 74, 79, 88, 91, 97 sts. Row 4: Bind off 26 31, 34, 39, 43, 48, 53, 56, 62 sts, remove marker.
You should have 27 27, 27, 31, 31, 31, 35, 35, 35 sts. Row 6: P1. Cut yarn, leaving a 1 yard tail, and tie off. With the right side of the work facing you, begin with new yarn in 1 st st on the right of remaining sts first st nxt to upper right front.
Row 1: K 80 90, sts. You should have 80 90, sts. Row 2: P across. Row 3: K across. With the right side of the work facing you, begin with new yarn in 1 st st on the right of remaining sts first st nxt to upper back.
Row 1: K 27 32, 35, 40, 44, 49, 54, 57, 63 sts, sl marker. Sl marker, P 27 32, 35, 40, 44, 49, 54, 57, 63 sts. Row 3: Bind off 26 31, 34, 39, 43, 48, 53, 56, 62 sts, remove marker.
Row 5: K1. With Long Tail Cast On, cast on 34 38, 42, 46, 50, 58, 62, 66, 70 sts. You should have 34 38, 42, 46, 50, 58, 62, 66, 70 sts.
Repeat Rows19 more times. You should now have 74 78, 82, 86, 90, 98, sts.
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Repeat Rows8 8, 8, 8, 4, 4, 1, 1, 1 more time s. Bind off, cut yarn, leaving a tail at least 2 yards long. Tie off. Block all pieces before seaming.
Use the blocking method recommended for the type of yarn you are using.
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For animal fiber yarns, it is generally recommend to wet block pin to finished measurements on blocking mat, spray with water, let dry.
For more information on Blocking, see this article. Lay Body of Sweater wrong-side-up, and fold both front sections to the center so the armhole slits are on the sides.
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See the extended section of ribbing at the top of each front? We will be sewing the bind-off edges of those extended sections together to make the back of the collar.
Notice that on one extension, the yarn tail comes from the collar edge long edge that goes down to the bottom of the sweaterand the other comes from the other edge short edge that goes down a bit to meet the shoulder edge of the front.
Thread the tail that comes from the collar edge through your yarn needle. Bring the bound-off edges of the ribbing extensions together, and turn them both over so they are wrong-side-up.
The purl side of the stockinette portions from the fronts will be facing up. We are sewing this seam with wrong sides up so the pretty side of the seam will be on the wrong side.
When the sweater is right-side-out and the collar is folded back, the pretty side of the seam will face out. Starting from the collar edge, begin mattress stitching the bound-off edges of the ribbing extensions together, stopping when you reach the other side of the ribbing extensions.
Take a small stitch at the end of the seam, wrap the yarn around the needle, and pull the needle through to make a knot.
Turn the work over so the right side of the sweater is facing up. You now have 2 yarn tails at the edge of the work, where the seam you just made is.
The right side of the sweater should be facing out. Fold the Upper Back edge in half to find the center, and line up the center with the collar seam just made.
We will sew the next seam with the yarn tail that is still on your needle, beginning at those aligned center points and working your way out to the shoulder edge.
When you reach the shoulder edge, take a small stitch at the end of the seam, wrap the yarn around the needle, and pull the needle through to make a knot.
Now we will attach the sleeves. Thread this yarn tail through your yarn needle. Lay the body of the sweater flat, and find the bottom of the armhole slit.
Lay the top edge of the sleeve right side up next to the armhole, making sure the top edge of the sleeve is parallel with the armhole edge.
Fold the top edge of the sleeve in half to find the center. Begin at the bottom of the armhole slit and the top corner of the sleeve where the yarn tail is coming from.
Skip the first stitch of the sleeve, as this will be used as an edge stitch in the next seam. Mattress stitch the first half of the sleeve to the armhole from the bottom of the armhole slit to the shoulder seam.
When you reach the stitch marker, remove it, and use it to pin the other top corner of the sleeve to the first corner that is already sewn to the sweater.
Continue mattress stitching the second half of the sleeve to the other half of the armhole slit from the shoulder seam back around to the bottom of the slit.
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When you reach the bottom of the armhole slit, leave the last stitch of the sleeve for an edge stitch on the next seam. Take a small stitch at the edge of the armhole, wrap the yarn around the needle, and pull the needle through to make a knot.
Bring the two long edges of the sleeve together with right sides up.
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Beginning at the underarm, mattress stitch those edges together, stopping when you get to the edge of the sleeve cuff. Take a small stitch at the edge of the cuff, wrap the yarn around the needle, and pull the needle through to make a knot.
Repeat instructions for attaching sleeve with the second sleeve. Weave in all remaining ends. This pattern is intended for your personal use only.
You may not share it, copy it, sell it, give it away, or mass-produce the finished product. However, you may sell the finished items on a small scale, as long as you convey in your item description that you used a Yay For Yarn pattern.
All patterns and photos are owned by Yay For Yarn. My mission is to share the joy of yarn crafts with makers of all skill levels by creating clear, thoroughly-explained video tutorials and modern, approachable projects.
You are welcome to share a link to any of my posts on your own website. You may also share one photo from each post, as long as the photo is not altered or changed in any way.
Thank you! How can I lengthen the sleeves?
Should I just add more rows once I get finished with the increases? Hi Linda! Yes, you could add length to the sleeves that way if you need to.
However, please keep in mind that the sweater is a drop-shoulder style, which means the body of the sweater comes down over the shoulder a bit.
Because of that, the sleeves are shorter than the length of the whole arm.
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